Monday, September 16, 2024

Felicity's fashions 8

 

Chapter 8

 

“Trinity,” said Felicity, “As you know, we are visiting Swanley Court School on Wednesday. Do you want a trunk packed, to be able to stay if you wish?”

“I ain’t got enough for a trunk,” said Trinity.

“I’ve been making over and making up some dresses suitable for a schoolgirl for you, between other work,” said Felicity.  “I’d have made all new, but for having to make a living as well. You will have all new art supplies, which I asked Mr. Bailey to purchase yesterday, and you have day dresses, a Sunday dress, and an evening gown, as well as underwear.  These are yours whether you decide to go to school or not, and you had better start calling me ‘Felicity’ as more friendly than ‘Miss Goyder.’

“Cor, can I see vem?” asked Trinity.

“You may indeed see them,” said Felicity. “This is your trunk; I’ve made you two hard-wearing dresses to play outside in, one printed in this ferny pattern of drab, I found a richer amber drab, which will suit you well, and another from nankeen, because you can wear that shade of yellow, and I have made it up to be worn, if you will, as a riding habit, with matching spencer with black frogging, and  I made you a matching shako with black feathers to wear to ride.  You have a plain straw bonnet, and I made you a pretty and frivolous lace cap to wear indoors which I think is not in the least like the caps of the asylum.”

“Coo, no, that ain’t a bit like them ugly things,” said Trinity. “So, do I have to learn to ride?”

“No, but it is a handy accomplishment to have,” said Felicity. “I made you nankeen trousers to wear under your dress as well, and for playing outside in the woods, where sometimes pantalettes are a little inadequate.”

Trinity sniggered.

“I’m going to look silly in pantalettes,” she said.

“Not when everyone else is looking just as silly,” said Felicity. “Your other day gowns are yellow muslin, striped pink and yellow poplin, and for a change, a print of brown stripes with red poppies between. Your Sunday best, white muslin with yellow ribbons, and your evening dress, Urling’s lace over a sateen petticoat with motifs of blonde lace.  Your new uncle can afford very expensive gowns, but you won’t want to look overdressed compared to the majority, will you?”

“No,” said Trinity.  “I like pretty things but they don’t have to be swell.”

“There’s a good girl,” said Felicity. “I’ve put in pieces of muslin for you to embroider to make collars or whatever.”

Trinity hugged her.

“He seems nice, and he can buy things, but you rescued me, and you do things for me,” she said, obscurely.

Felicity hugged her back.

 

 

 

 

22 Henrietta Street

6th April

 

Dearest Phip,

Well, Lord Hartley picked us up in his extremely comfortable coach and we went out to Swanley Court.

Lord Hartley was much surprised that we had arranged a trunk for Trinity already, in case she wanted to stay. I think he was a little put out, having expected to purchase clothing for her. However, he complimented her on the day gown she was wearing, which pleased Trinity.

“Felicity makes things for me and she rescued me,” she said. “I think I would have died in the asylum.”

He looked as if he was going to pooh-pooh this comment, and was startled when I agreed.

“They cut her hair off, called her ‘Abishag’ and I’ve heard how girls there are punished by being beaten and deprived food, and the food is awful,” I told him. “Girls who do not comply are quite likely to die.  It’s like the awful charity school in Oxford which our preceptresses stole a little bit, and it took a long time for some of the girls to regain their health. Some of them are still sickly from harsh punishments. I don’t think she is exaggerating at all.”

“Thank God you found her,” said Hartley. He was, I think, really upset.

He asked her to call him ‘Uncle Victor,’ which I think Trinity will accept well enough. She was regarding him thoughtfully, and I can’t help wondering what was going on in her complex little head.

Anyway, it does not take long to get to Swanlea from in town, and Trinity was somewhat impressed by the amount of grounds.

“How much are the girls allowed?” she asked.

“The girls are allowed to go anywhere in the grounds,” I told her. “In the wet, you are expected to stay to the paths, and stay in the covered swing house or in the folly on the other side of the river. Playing in the marsh near the river is forbidden without two other girls with you, because the boggy bits might be dangerous if you fall.”

“Seems fair,” said Trinity.

Well, Phip, we visited the school so that Trinity could meet people and make up her mind whether she wanted to go there or not rather than just to look at the grounds; and we went in, and Elinor led us to look in at the class which Trinity would be joining . It has little Sarah Ryland there as another artist, but it also has Eva O’Toole.

We arrived as Libby was asking the class if they could tell her what ‘Midsummer Night’s Dream’ was about, and up pipes Eva, “It’s about Bedlam, Mrs. Belvoir.”

“And what leads you to that conclusion, Eva?” asked Libby, with some asperity and no little confusion.

“Sure, and isn’t it just mad f’ some fella t’be thinkin’ that he’d loike t’sit in a cowslip and suck bees, or put a girdle about the earth, bedad! And then there’s the woman who thinks she’s a queen, and wants to marry a donkey, wirra! It’s out av her head she is t’be sure, and all of them away wi’ the fairies.”

So, there was Libby, who had dropped her head into her hands, and I’m not sure if she was more moved by despair or mirth, or both, and then up pipes your pet protégé, Phoebe, “I thought the Irish were supposed to have poetry in their souls, Eva O’ Toole! It’s a pretty fancy and the main characters are fairies, and there’s magic involved and the donkey is really a man. For shame, you didn’t even read Charles and Mary Lamb’s prose version!”

“I don’t like reading,” said Eva. “And why would anyone suck bees?”

“The line is ‘where the bee sucks, there suck I,’ which isn’t even in ‘Midsummer Night’s Dream,’ but ‘The Tempest,’” said Libby, with great restraint. “Puck placed dewdrops in cowslips.”

“Oh, well, it’s all one, so it is,” said Eva, airily.

“’Midsummer Night’s dream’ is an allegory to demonstrate that even a supposedly idyllic world like fairyland is full of mischief and wickedness,” said Libby. “By using fictional beings like fairies, Shakespeare was able to demonstrate a few pieces of bad behaviour, like the widespread belief in love philtres, without being too offensive.”

So up pipes my Imp, Trinity! “I likes Macbeth,” she said. “And it’s fun offending actors by quoting it.”

“Ah, a healthy disbelief in superstition; how delightful, Trinity, my dear,” said Libby. “Have you read ‘Midsummer Night’s Dream?’”

“No, but I have read ‘The Tempest,’ said Trinity, with great aplomb. “It’s famous! But Prospero’s a neejit, because he’s awful powerful but daft-like with it.”

“Well, that’s accurate enough,” said Libby.  “Would you like to read through the abridged version of the ‘Dream’ in Charles and Mary Lamb’s book, so you may be up with the rest of the class?”

So there we left her, Trinity being every ready to sink into any story given to her.

“I am sure you will be able to give Lord Hartley a tour of the rest of the school, Felicity, my dear,” said Elinor. “Bring him for tea in the staff sitting room when you have exhausted the poor man. I have some senior Latin scholars waiting for me.”

The Latin scholars are Hermione Driscoll and Kitty Walker, of course, and Himself would look in on them.

He retired bested.

He smiled wisely and said nothing in the mathematics class we visited. The junior class, consisting solely of Amelia Walker and the O’Toole twins, and consequently feeling like a class of thirty middle-schoolers, were doing botany, which meant that  Kathleen was surreptitiously saving the sticky spring stems of cleavers to... well, to be honest, I have no idea what she planned to do, but she gave me a blinding smile whilst Deirdre  distracted Miss Tissot, who presumably had drawn the short straw to be lumbered with the O’Tooles.

“The O’Toole twins are small hellions,” I told Hartley. “It’s as well Trinity is old enough to feel her dignity in being above them, or they might well manage to cause trouble with anything breakable around, like London.” I regaled him with a few of their escapades.

“My goodness,” he said, faintly. “No wonder Samms wanted a twin to set a twin to catch a twin. I gather his niece and nephew are a handful.”

“I haven’t heard anything beyond the incident of the frog,” I told him. I suspect they keep you on your toes, though.

Anyway, we discovered Trinity on her way to art lessons, talking nineteen to the dozen with Sarah, and I showed Lord Hartley the swing house, and the badminton court, and where we play rounders, and the soft balls for indoor games, by which time he was ready for a cup of tea.

Miss Joliffe brought Trinity to us in the staff sitting room, and she was so exhausted, she climbed on my lap, big girl though she is, and fell asleep after giving me a picture she had drawn of me and Lord Hartley, labelled ‘Uncle Victor marrying Felicity.’

Was my face red!

Hartley looked at it and blushed.

“The bairns do like a muckle piece o’ stabeelity,” said Dr. Mac.

Anyway, Trinity elected to stay so long as she could come home if she was unhappy, which I gladly consented to.  And we drove back in a rather uncomfortable silence.

“It’s a good picture,” said Hartley.

“I can see why she doesn’t want to feel that she has to choose,” I said. “I wondered if you would marry Helen.”

“Helen! No, she is too much like a sister,” said Hartley.  “And she has a beau, who is prepared to wait until Vivienne does not need Helen as a chaperone, however long that may me.  Of course, if I were married, Helen would be free to wed.”

“I’m not going to marry someone just to give them a chaperone for their sister,” I said, with asperity. “If I get married I want to marry a man who would ride Ventre à terre for me, declares that I move him to such a passion that he cannot live without me, and who cherishes me like precious china, but allows that I am also very capable.”

“Does he have to provide the moon, cut into eighths and covered in cream?” he asked.

“No, that would be foolish,” I said. “The moon, being made of cheese, needs to be served in eighths with redcurrant jelly, walnuts, celery, and pickles.”

“Of course,” he said. “Well, I am glad you are not too practical to dash down my visitations into the absurd.”

“I like absurd well enough,” I said. Oh, Phip! I felt suddenly very shy. And then he took my hand.

“Felicity,” he said, “I don’t know you well enough as a person, only through my female relatives and...  and.....”

“And your mistress,” I said. “I would like to know you better.  I had wondered if you would take buying my dress as a way to ask me to be your mistress.”

“I would not do such a thing to a lady,” said Hartley... Victor. “Rosabelle comes from a class where marriage arrangements are lax to non-existent. The demi-monde have their own rules. And I’ve been generous to her.”

“So long as she hasn’t generously shared any diseases with you,” I said.

“I am very careful,” said Victor [it is easier to write the second time.] “And that sounds as if I intended to continue to have mistresses, which if I married, of course, I would not. Especially if I felt a passion such that I could not live without a wife whom I might cherish and who is also very capable. With or without pickles to go with the moon.”

“And we need to find out if you could feel that and if I could too,”, I said.

Phip, my heart was pounding so much, I felt sure he could hear it!

“I won’t kiss you,” he said. “You are essentially in my power and it would be indefensible. However, I will take you for a  drive on Saturday, in my phaeton, if the weather is not too inclement.”

“What if it is?” I asked.

“We could look at the museum, or go to an art gallery,” he suggested.

“We can decide on the day,” I said.

And then we were back in Henrietta Street, and he handed me out of the coach, and kissed my hand whilst all the neighbours gawped.  And I blushed again, and ran indoors, like a gawky child.

 And there was Florence, giving me a knowing look, so I poured it all out to her over a cup of tea.

“Well, it will be quiet around here without that child,” she said, which wasn’t the non-sequiteur it sounds, but a way of saying that things will never be quite the same again.

But I have a heap of commissions, so I will not think about it again until Saturday.

Your loving sister,

Felicity.

 

Sunday, September 15, 2024

Felicity's Fashions 7

 

Chapter 7

 

22 Henrietta Street.

28th March

 

My dearest Phip,

It is late at night but I have to pen you a letter about Vivienne’s party.  I fear I have been too busy all week, sewing, to write before, but you will be astonished by what happened.

I was glad to finish both of Vivienne’s dresses; find sketches below of the designs, with which I was very pleased. I also squeezed in my own dress; as you can see, it is not fussy at all but turned out very elegantly, even with the insertion of the extra panel.

Anyway, I was glad to wear it, because paying off a dress commissioned for someone else which I then wear cannot be counted as being bought a dress by a gentleman, can it? I cannot see that Hartley would consider it the same as his gifts to his mistresses.



The middle one is over a jonquil petticoat with Jonquil yellow bodice, and I did the butterfly on the bodice as a beaded creation in the end, in shades of yellow. The butterflies on the Dhaka muslin were courtesy of my white-work classes; Oh, how fiddly they were, but so pretty, and so much more subtle than applique.  All the butterflies on the other gown are cutwork in yellow and white, and using scraps of the Dhaka muslin from the first dress.  I have been so excited to show them to Vivienne!

Anyway, I had Peter next door deliver them for me; he is to take up a position with Lord Hartley as boot boy as soon as he reaches his twelfth birthday so long as he goes to Sunday school to continue studying his letters.  Lord Hartley apparently has an arrangement with a group of Quakers to continue the education of any of his staff who wish it, which is, alas, precious few. He is not a Quaker himself, but admires their principles.

I confess, I had mixed feelings about going as a guest to Vivienne’s party. However, there was no sniggering from the butler, and Helen greeted me with a kiss on each cheek, and I was just thinking, ‘so far so good,’ when a man, a total stranger, came up to me, grabbed me by the shoulders, and shook me! Then he asked how I dare neglect my duties to gallivant up to town like this.

Oh, Phip!  I saw red, and I floored him, the way Dr. Mac does!

Then I saw Hartley rushing over, and the other man got up and screeched to me that I was fired, and I said, coldly, ‘You, sir, appear to be mistaken; since I am self-employed, and own my own business, you cannot fire me.” 

“Miss Goyder, I don’t know what you are playing at,” he growled, “But you are not a fit person to care for children.”

“I wouldn’t want to care for children, I don’t like them. They grow up like their parents,” I said. At which point I had a revelation and my mouth fell open like a cod. “Are you assuming that I am Philippa Goyder?”

“Of course you’re Philippa Goyder!” he yelled.

“Wrong,” I said. “I am Felicity Goyder. Philippa is my twin, the horsy one who keeps pets. Now I guess who you might be; that Samms fellow. I am not sure I want my sister working for a man who is so intemperate of temper. I believe I might send my solicitor to wait upon her to extricate her from any contract you might have signed, and a man who lashes out like that is no gentleman and certainly ought not to have control of children.”

And Hartley was there and put a hand on my shoulder, and said, “Samms, really! Can she be so like her sister?  I invited you for a joke for when you saw her, but to assault a lady, is indefensible, even if you thought it was your Goyder twin not mine?”

Samms spluttered somewhat.

“I apologise,” he said. “I... I have come to rely on your sister and her handling of my nephews and niece, and it disappointed me beyond measure that she might have deserted them for the social round.”

“Perhaps you should have addressed me more temperately, then, to ascertain if I was Philippa; because if Philippa came to London to a social gathering where you might be, you may be sure that she would have a very good reason for it, and  would impart this to you as soon as possible,” I said, icily.  “Philippa is straightforward and as honest as the day is long. If you suspect her of behaving slyly, you are not fit to have care of the harness of the donkey that fled.”

His lips twitched, though one of them was turning blue and purple where I hit him.

“You believe in straight talking yourself, Miss Other Goyder,” he said.

“I do,” I said. “And don’t think that Philippa lacks powerful friends in the wilds of Wiltshire, because she can always go to Haseley Court to our friends there.”

“I am glad she has friends, and when I am in residence, I will encourage her to ride over and see them,” said Samms. “I am a man of hot temper when I think someone has let me down, or proved false, and the children so adore your sister, it would have been another bereavement for them to lose her.”

“You have almost dug yourself out of the hole you leaped into,” I said. “Another time you may notice that Philippa has a cluster of freckles on her nose, caring little if the sun reaches her, and I do not.”

“I... I see,” he said, and bowed and kissed my hand properly and punctiliously.

I am not sure I am happy about him as an employer, Phip; you must be aware of his tendency to temper.

“I am sorry, it is my fault for wanting to play a joke on my old friend,” said Hartley.

“I can’t remonstrate, you know,” I said. “Philippa and I were practical jokers at school, and we did rather rely on our similarities at times.”

He laughed.

“How very self-honest of you, Miss Goyder!  Come and see Vivienne holding court; she was spoiled for choice over which to wear.”

“What did she choose?” I asked.

“See for yourself!” he said, and there was Vivienne, in the butterfly bodice, and she looked a dream. The quantity of pleated in Dhaka muslin floated out around her as she moved  - I put some lead shot in the hem to help with the line of it -  and the whitework butteflies on it fluttered as if they were flying in soft mist.

“Yes!” I said. “Exactly what I intended!”

“It will be the talk of the town,” said Hartley, “And so will you, for everyone will know about your fabulous designs.”

“Well, with luck I shall be able to employ more unmarried mothers,” I said.

“Is that a charity of yours?”

“It’s one Daisy got involved with, so of course we all follow Daisy,” I said. 

“Is she another sister?”

“In a manner of speaking; Daisy is, like Phip and me a founder member of the Swanley Court school,” I said. “Daisy; she’s something special.”  And I explained all about Daisy.

“I hope Trinity will want to go to this school,” he said. “I am not hearing any backbiting or jealousy of those orphans who turn out to have fortunes, even though you have to make your own way.”

“Why should I be jealous of Daisy?” I said. “Daisy was on her way to making her own fortune before it turned out that her parents left her wealth. But Daisy would rather have her parents back. Not like us, who hardly knew Papa.”

“I did not know my parents well, either,” he admitted. “I want Trinity to feel she has people she can turn to.”

“Swanley takes care of its pupils, paying or charity,” I said.

“I hope she will feel she can come to me, too,” he said.

This was a jolt; I had a rush of jealousy, Phip!  I have become very fond of Trinity, and I did not want him buying her. I am sure he does not look at it that way, but you know how easily I get jealous, when it seems someone is interfering in my family.  I am glad I can look on Phoebe with as much affection as you, and I know you would accept Trinity on my recommendation, but if she becomes Trinity Hartley, she will live in Grosvenor Square when she is not at school, and Victor Hartley will get termly reports on her behaviour and attainments, not me, and it hurt, Phip! I had to swallow back some hasty words, because it is right that her own family should take on her care. It’s why Julia’s tribe of half-siblings came to Swanley before she took them back with her Rupert and their little Bells [who should never be allowed anywhere near their real father.]

Anyway, after that I met a heap of people, and received congratulations on my design, and was essentially shown off by Lord Hartley as if I was another sister whose accomplishments were to be praised as if I was playing the pianoforte at a musical like a girl making her come-out.  Can it work, being introduced in public, and yet working for a day’s wage? I am not sure if it can, but at least I may make a modest fortune., enough to keep you and me, twin, in our old age.  I expect you’ll be breeding horses or something to add to our combined income. Our chances of marriage are slim, but I know that if either of us does marry, the other will always have a home with whoever does.

Actually, Phip, looking back, Mr. Samms was as upset as he was furious; I did not notice at the time, being shocked and angry, but I do wonder if he is sweet on you.

If he is, and if you feel the same way, make sure you extract from him a promise to curb his temper. I know you can take care of yourself, but the law is on the side of a man beating his wife, not on the side of the wife.

However, that is a bit nebulous, isn’t it!

I am going to bed now, to sleep the sleep of the just and the totally exhausted. I am glad I am not a society lady, the hours even a young girl like Vivienne keeps are too late for me.

Your loving twin.

 

 

51 Albermarle St

29th March, by hand

 

My dear Miss Goyder,

Might I tender my apologies again in writing.

I am not sure how to explain my savage wrath over thinking you to be your sister and I am heartily embarrassed. I fear she will also ring a peal over me for my actions.

May I say you have a most excellent right cross. If your sister is as accomplished at pugilism, I may have her starting Philip on learning.

Yours,

Lionel Samms.

 

22 Henrietta St

29th March, by hand by return

My dear Mr. Samms,

I accept your apology and I suggest you consider for yourself why you should feel so heated over my sister, and consider how best to behave as a gentleman in that case.  I also suggest that you do nothing precipitately for the sake of the children.

We have not studied pugilism, but coming from a school for indigent gentlewomen, we have suffered incursions from inadequate ‘guardians’ as well as the  impudence of local hunt members who thought little of riding roughshod over the grounds, regardless of quite little girls being out walking, feeling that nobody cared about ‘a pack of orphans.’ I have seen Dr. Macfarlane, who is an exponent of pugilism as well as a very fine doctor, chastise those who have posed a threat to one or more of the charges of the school. I am flattered that you consider that I have learned any science, but though Philippa can give as good an account for herself as I can, I doubt she could undertake to teach any more than we have been taught, which is literally self-defence. A lone young lady without family can find herself in an unpleasant situation, and since most of us are trained to be governesses, to be sent off to families which may, or may not treat a lone young lady with respect, we have been shown how to escape holds of various kinds, and where best to place a fan or the ferrule of a parasol, and how to maim an attacker without any kind of resort to Broughton’s rules, since preserving our modesty is considerably more important than any kind of sporting undertaking.

Yours sincerely,

Felicity Goyder.

 

Hartley House

Grosvenor Square

 

29th March by hand

My dear Miss Goyder,

I hope you are recovered from last night’s upsetting start; I believe you will be receiving some orders on Monday. I have warned those who showed an interest that you probably will prefer not to copy any design precisely, as your dresses are works of art.  I would strongly suggest, however, that you double your prices for original gowns, in order to be taken seriously; because you are not charging for your creativity and talent designing, which should be taken into account as a fair addition to your costing. After all, if you were not so talented, you would have to pay a designer.

I confess to having had a bet with my cousin that if I made you fashionable, you would put up your prices; but I know you better now, and I was wrong to think you would do so. However, for originals, this is a different matter. You can ask, and get, much more, and it will help you to subsidise the makeovers on which I suspect you lose money for your time, if not for your materials. Please think about it.”

Hartley.

 

22 Henrietta Street

By hand

My lord,

Mr. Samms has written me a graceful apology. If you should wish to twit him on his reaction, I suspect him to be more disappointed that Philippa has not appeared in such finery for him and him alone, not that she cares for finery. She takes more interest in having a good seat than in having a fetching riding habit.

Trinity is hanging on my arm asking me to thank you for the indigestible goodies, which she has been, bless her, sharing with the household in an impromptu tea party. She has a noticeable cream moustache; excuse me, I must just wipe it off.

She is now writing you her own thank you without needing to be prompted.

I have always wanted to be able to provide beautiful dresses for girls in the sort of poverty-stricken gentility my sister and I might have found ourselves had not Papa managed to lose our house and lands as well as any other monies that he had; so I am very much in two minds.  Perhaps I should consider putting up prices to those people prepared to pay full price for the likes of Dhaka muslin, and read between the lines of any girls looking for something made with remnant lengths, and subsidise them as well as makeovers. I am glad that you know me better now than to have such a cynical view of me.

Felicity Goyder

 

 

22 Henrietta Street

Wensday

Dear Mister Lord Heartley

Fank you so much for the loverly sticky fings what I enjoyed very much, and so did Miss Flowerans and Mr. Bailey. They are my frens.

Trinity